What to do Shopping  
       
  Cairo's Khan el-khalili is world-famous for its wealth of things to buy. Antique or modern, simple or elegant, some handicraft item is bound to draw your eye. You'll need to haggle, but will be rewarded for your efforts by a truly remarkable change in price. Don't take a guide or interpreter when you go shopping as it is standard practice for him to get a kick-back on every purchase. Sometimes, a detour to the workshop in a back street on roof-top room will give you the chance to buy a reduced price. Here are some of Egypt's best buys, available in Khan el-Khalili and in tourist shops and markets in other cities, too:

  Alabaster. The word itself is said to derive from the name of an Egyptian town. Shops sell statuettes, cigarette boxes, flower vases and similar items made from it. The stone comes from the Nile Valley and is worked among other places, in Luxor.

  Antiquities. Although it was once permissible for licensed dealers to sell genuine antique pieces of jewellery and arte-facts from Pharaonic times, this trade is no longer legal. If you are caught at the airport transporting antiquities, the penalties are stiff. Fakes abound, however, and may make quaint souvenirs as long as they don't cost too much.

  Copper and Brass. The tinkling of coppersmith's hammers is a familiar sound in Khan el-Khalili . The best trays, Turkish coffee sets, samovars and other items are generally the older ones, but new copper and brass pieces are often cheaper. And still attractive and useful. It takes about a day and a half to chisel the arabesques into a small copper serving tray.

  Cotton goods. Egyptian cotton's long fibers and smooth finish make it among the highest grades in the world Mohammed Ali built the wealth of his dynasty on cotton. Many shirt-makers' shops unpolished cotton will be cheaper than the more chic polished cloth.

  Jeweler. Gold and silver jewellery is often sold by weight with only a small mark-up for the exquisite detailed work-manship. Take your pick from Pharaonic styles inspired by King Tutankhamon's treasure, arabesques, or modern pieces. Precious and semi-precious stones are also sold by weight at attractive prices, whether set in a piece of jewellery or not. Generally speaking, it's best to shop around before buying.

  Leather goods. Handbags, satchels and shoulder bags are all good buys if you bargain well, but it's important to inspect each piece very carefully for flaws and careless work-manship. Some shops sell camel saddles. They're hard to find outside Egypt, but before buying you should ask yourself: does my camel really need a new one yet?

  Tapestries. The eye-catching designs worked in cloth by the children of El-Harraniya (a village between Giza and Saqqara) can brighten any wall or liven any table-top. They come in different sizes, although colours and motifs will probable be your criteria of choice. The true Harraniye tapestries tend to be rather expensive, and you may want to look at the less expensive copies and imitations (good and bad) which have come on the market.

  Woodwork. Some of the most attractive woodwork in the world comes from Egypt. Foremost is mashrabiyya, the intricate screens of lathe-turned wooden lattice which covered Egyptian windows in the old days, shielding women from the curious stares of strange men. Screens, room-dividers and tray-stands are sold at reasonable prices, but you ought to consider the problems of transportation before you buy. An alternative choice, easily jammed into a suitcase, is a small box of cedar or sandalwood inlaid with bits of ivory, mother-of-pearl and ebony. Each tiny piece of inlay is glued in by hand, set in place with a pair of tweezers. If you have space in your luggage, consider one of the larger boxes or perhaps an inlaid chess-board or small table.